Note: This is just the stem!
Here it is, the driver I use to assemble all of the products here at the Fellhoelter shop.
Steven Kelly and I set out to make a driver that was comfortable, dealt with the flaws I perceive in other custom drivers, is fun, and spins for a long time, if you are one of those twitchy, fidgeting types.
One of my biggest complaints with the crop of custom drivers that I have come across is visibility.
They all use the short driver bits, and are generally larger in diameter.
(Mine are 3/8″ in diameter or about 9.5mm)
The short bits cause at least 2 problems, for ME, maybe not for you…
1, It blocks the visibility of small screws, and makes them awkward to use.
2, they don’t reach in to tight places. A common place that gets me are my low ride pocket clips. Many of the bits do not reach in them. And if they do, they block the whole hole, so you can’t see what is going on.
We fixed that by using 2″ long power driver bits.
They cost more, but I love them, and think you will too.
I’ll even provide you with T6, 8, 10, and 15 Torx bits from Wiha, the best in the business.
These are the most common sizes used on knives, and the stuff I make.
More bits can be bought at any hardware store, and less common bits like the Torx are found at industrial supply houses like McMaster-Carr and MSC.
Of course Google finds them too. Check Here
The ball uses a stainless bearings.
You can remove the ball for cleaning, but not the bearing from the ball…
You can also blow air or brake cleaner in the hole in the ball, which blows through the bearing, and keeps it spinning at max speed.
Right now, I am getting about 30 seconds to 1 minute spins out of a clean bearing, and a copper ball.
The Titanium doesn’t spin as long, but still spins for a long time.
The bits are held in place by a magnet, so they are very easy to change from one size to the next.
If you are lazy like me though, you’ll just want several drivers, in different materials, for each size.
Then, you can tell at a glance what is what, and never slow down…